|
Arrow
Fletching:
Glued
near the
rear of
most
arrows
are 3
(sometimes
4)
feathers
or
plastic
vanes,
arranged
in an
equal
pattern
around
the
circumference
of the
shaft.
These
parabolic-shaped
pieces
of
material
(sometimes
collectively
called
the
"fletching")
serve to
help
steer
the
arrow
during
flight.
If the
tail of
the
arrow is
precisely
following
the tip
during
flight,
the
fletching
slices
cleanly
through
the air
without
changing
the
arrow's
path.
But if
the
arrow's
tail
isn't
perfectly
following
the tip,
friction
occurs
between
the air
and the
fast
moving
fletch -
pushing
the
fletch
(and the
tail of
the
arrow)
back
into
proper
alignment
with the
arrow's
tip. So
the
fletching
helps to
stabilize
and
correct
the
arrow's
flight.
Easy
enough!
Of
course,
all
fletching
materials
aren't
created
equal
either.
Arrow
fletching
is
available
in a
number
of
different
shapes,
colors,
types,
thicknesses,
lengths,
etc.
And they
can be
applied
in
different
configurations:
straight,
offset,
or
helical
(spiral).
So how
do we
know
which
ones to
pick?
Should
we go
with
feathers?
Or
vanes?
Would a
bigger
fletch
do a
better
job than
small
ones?
Is one
more
durable
than
another?
What are
the
trade-offs?
Well,
let's
start
with the
easy
ones.
Feathers
or
Vanes?
Vanes
are made
of soft
flexible
plastic
and are
the
popular
choice
for
today's
archer.
They're
inexpensive,
easy to
apply,
quiet in
flight,
available
in
almost
any
size/color,
and they
can be
easily
fletched
in a
number
of
different
patterns
(straight
- offset
-
helical).
Since
vanes
are
impervious
to
water,
they
make an
excellent
all-weather
choice
for
hunting.
In
addition,
they're
also
relatively
durable.
Vanes
can be
crumpled
and
abused
(up to a
point of
course)
and they
still
pop back
into
shape -
not
nearly
as
delicate
as
feathers.
However,
compared
to
feathers
of the
same
size,
vanes
are
quite
heavy -
as much
as 3X
the
weight
of a
comparable
feather.
And
since
vanes
have a
smooth
surface
area,
they
don't
"dig-into"
the air
as well
as the
rougher
surface
of
feathers.
So all
other
things
being
equal,
vanes
don't
stabilize
arrow
flight
quite as
well as
feathers.
But
feathers
have
their
ups and
downs
too.
Firstly,
feathers
are
rather
expensive.
Basic 4"
feathers
can cost
up to 4X
as much
as
comparable
vanes.
Feathers
that are
barred,
or have
intricate
patterns/designs,
or
feathers
that
have
specialized
shapes
can be
as much
as 10X
the cost
of
standard
vanes.
And
feathers
must
generally
be
fletched
in a
helical
(spiral)
configuration.
Since
feathers
aren't
flexible
enough
to be
manipulated
easily
like
vanes,
they
usually
come
pre-formed
in
either a
right
spiral
(called
right-wing)
or left
spiral
(left-wing).
Feathers
typically
cannot
be
fletched
in a
straight
or
offset
pattern.
And of
course,
feathers
don't
hold up
well to
weather
or
rough-handling.
BUT,
many
archers
swear by
feathers
for good
reason.
Feathers
are very
light.
Three 4"
Gateway
feathers
weigh
just
over 8
grains -
compared
to 24
grains
for
three 4"
Duravanes.
This
means
your
arrows
fly
faster
with
less
loss of
trajectory
downrange.
And when
it comes
to
design,
you just
can't
deny
that
mother
nature
knows
best.
Feathers
do a
tremendous
job at
stabilizing
arrow
flight -
but
they're
not for
everyone
or every
application.
Think
you know
which
one is
best for
you?
Well
hold on
just a
moment.
This is
an
important
decision.
There
are a
few
other
factors
you
should
consider
before
you jump
to your
conclusion
about
feathers
vs.
vanes.
Straight
- Offset
-
Helical?
Another
factor
that
determines
the
effectiveness
of your
fletching
is the
TURN of
the
fletch.
If your
fletching
is
arranged
in a
helical
(spiral)
pattern
- like a
boat
propeller
- your
arrow
will
rotate
in
flight.
Much
like a
football
that's
thrown
with a
perfect
spiral,
an arrow
will fly
straighter
and be
more
stable
if it
rotates
in-flight.
Aerodynamically,
a
helical
configuration
is
clearly
a better
choice.
However,
a
helical
fletch
may not
always
be
appropriate
or
necessary
for your
particular
bow
setup.
For
example,
some
arrow
rests
will not
provide
enough
clearance
to allow
a
helical
fletch
to pass
thru
without
contact.
In this
case,
many
archers
use an
offset
fletch,
where
the
vanes
are
still
straight,
rather
than in
a spiral
pattern,
but they
are
slightly
turned
on the
shaft to
promote
some
rotation
in-flight
without
compromising
fletching
clearance.
For very
unforgiving
arrow
rests
with
limited
clearance,
or for
competition
target
setups
that
don't
require
much
stabilization,
the
straight
fletch
may be
the best
option.
Take a
look at
the
diagrams
below
and the
corresponding
pro's
and
con's
associated
with
each
fletching
configuration.
When you
order
your
arrows,
you'll
need to
select
one of
these
options.
|
Straight Fletch |
4º Right Offset Fletch |
Right Helical Fletch |
|

Does Not Rotate in Flight
|

Rotates Slightly in Flight
|

Rotates Dramatically in Flight
|
|
- Fastest Flying Vane Configuration
- Least Amount of Air Resistance
- Works with Any Arrow Rest
- Minimal Fletching Clearance Problems |
- Provides More Stabilization for Broadheads
- Only Some Air Resistance in Flight
- Works with Most Arrow Rests
- Stable Flight to Moderate Distances |
- Superior Stabilization for Broadheads
- Best Overall Arrow Flight at Long Distance
- Increased Overall Accuracy
- Arrow Corrects Attitude in Flight |
|
- Less Stable at Long Distances
- Provides Less Stabilization for Broadheads
- Best Used in a Well-Tuned Bow |
- May Cause Fletching Clearance Issues
- Some Loss of Arrow Velocity
(Most Popular Choice) |
- Notable Loss of Arrow Velocity
- Fletching Clearance More Problematic |
Right or
Left?
If you
choose
to go
with an
offset
or
helical
fletch,
the
arrow
will
rotate
in
flight.
But
which
way
should
it
rotate?
Right or
left?
Feathers,
which
come in
right-wing
and
left-wing
shapes,
can make
the
arrow
rotate
either
direction
depending
upon
your
choice.
And
vanes
can be
fletched
right or
left as
well.
An arrow
with a
right
turn
will
rotate
clockwise
(as
viewed
from the
nock)
during
flight.
An arrow
with a
left
turn
will
rotate
counterclockwise.
So
what's
the big
difference?
With
most
modern
setups........nothing.
One is
as good
as the
other.
The only
major
difference
is that
left-turn
(counterclockwise)
arrows
tend to
impact
the
target
and
loosen
your
tips,
while
right-turn
(clockwise)
arrows
tend to
impact
the
target
and
tighten
your
tips.
Otherwise,
it
really
makes no
difference.
Of
course,
this
wasn't
always
the
case.
The
traditional
wisdom
is for
RH
shooters
to shoot
a right
turn
fletch
and LH
shooters
to shoot
a left
turn
fletch.
And if
you
shoot a
traditional
bow OR
you have
an
old-fashioned
flipper
or
plunger
style
rest,
this is
still
good
advice
for
achieving
the best
vane/feather
clearance.
But for
shooters
with
modern
equipment
and
center-shot
cutaway
risers,
if you
have to
pick one
or the
other,
we
suggest
you
choose a
right
turn.
Or you
can flip
a coin.
:)
Fletching
Size:
How Big
to Go?
Most
vanes
and
feathers
are
available
in
several
different
sizes.
The most
common
are the
3", 4",
and 5",
with the
4" being
the
industry
standard
for most
applications.
However,
you may
decide a
little
larger
or
smaller
fletch
is
better
for you,
but
there
are a
few
things
to
consider.
Weight:
If
you're
concerned
about
your
finished
arrow
weight
or your
F.O.C.
balance
(more on
this in
a
moment),
it's
worth
noting
that
your
choice
and size
of
fletching
material
will
have a
significant
impact
on both
of those
attributes.
Take a
look at
the
chart
below to
see how
much
your
fletching
choice
will add
to your
finished
arrow.
Since
all of
that
weight
is going
to be
concentrated
in the
rear of
the
arrow,
heavy
fletching
material
means a
you'll
also
need
more tip
weight
to
maintain
a good
F.O.C.
balance.
|
|
Three 3" |
Three 4" |
Three 5" |
|
Feathers (Gateway) |
+6.12 grains |
+8.28 grains |
+10.9 grains |
|
Vanes (Norway/Duravanes) |
+18.9 grains |
+24.0 grains |
+34.5 grains |
Surface
Area:
In
addition
to the
TURN of
your
fletching,
the
second
factor
that
determines
how much
stabilization
you can
expect
will be
directly
related
to the
total
amount
of
surface
area of
the
fletching
material
you
select.
Larger
fletching
will
have
more
surface
area,
small
fletching
will
have
less.
The more
surface
area,
the more
resistance
the
fletching
will
have
with the
surrounding
air and
the more
effective
the
fletching
will be
at
correcting
the
arrow in
flight.
Compare
the
total
surface
area
(both
sides)
of the
standard
3", 4"
and 5"
fletch.
|
|
Three 3" |
Three 4" |
Three 5" |
|
Approximate Surface Area |
6.42 sq-in |
9.64 sq-in |
13.23 sq-in |
Three 5"
vanes
will
have
over
twice
the
surface
area of
three 3"
vanes.
So a 5"
fletch
would
arguably
be
better
for
stabilizing
the
arrow,
right?
Perhaps.
Just
remember
that
archery
is all
about
trade-offs.
If you
go with
a huge
fletch,
you'll
also
have
more
weight,
less FOC,
and the
larger
fletchings
may or
may not
clear
your
arrow
rest
properly.
A heavy
load of
vanes
also
decreases
your
arrow
spine
(though
only
slightly).
Fletching
Choice:
Recommendations
First
and
foremost,
your
fletching
choice
should
be what
yields
the best
accuracy.
So
before
you
choose
your
fletching
type,
it's
important
to
consider
how
difficult
your
arrows
will be
to
stabilize
in
flight.
If you
only use
your bow
for
recreational
target
shooting
with
field
points
or
target
nibbs, a
3"
fletch
will
probably
be
sufficient.
Field
points
are easy
to
stabilize.
But
broadheads
are
another
story.
If you
shoot
broadheads
(particularly
large
fixed-blade
broadheads)
which
often
tend to
fly
erratically,
a larger
fletch
will be
essential
to
achieving
good
arrow
flight
and
consistent
groups.
If you
shoot
mechanical
broadheads,
you can
get by
with a
little
less.
There
probably
isn't a
true
right
and
wrong
here, as
fletching
material
is
essentially
a
personal
choice.
But here
is
general
chart to
help you
select a
reasonable
fletching
option
for your
setup.
|
Fletching Options
(Suggested) |
I use a containment style arrow rest with limited clearance: Whisker Biscuit, Whisper Disc, Bodoodle Zapper, GK Shoot-Out, or similar. |
I use a shoot-thru style arrow rest: TM Hunter, Golden Key Rover, Bodoodle Pro-Lite, Quiktune 800, Quikset Hunter, or similar. |
I use a drop-away style arrow rest: Muzzy Zero Effect, Trophy Ridge Drop Zone, Trophy Taker, QAD Ultimate, Trap Door or similar. |
|
I'm careful with my equipment. Inclement weather and fletching durability isn't really an issue. |
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" Str. Vanes |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
4" Str.
Vanes |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
5" Str.
Vanes |
|
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" R-Hel Feathers |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
4" R-Hel Feathers |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
4" R-Hel Feathers |
|
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" R-Hel Feathers |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
3" R-Hel Feathers |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
4" R-Hel Feathers |
|
|
I'm a little rough on my equipment, so I need fletchings that will take some abuse and hold up in all weather situations. |
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" Str. Vanes |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
4" Str.
Vanes |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
5" Str.
Vanes |
|
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" Offset Vanes |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
4" Offset
Vanes |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
5" Offset
Vanes |
|
|
Field Tips or Nibbs Only |
3" R-Hel Vanes |
|
Mechanical B-Heads |
4" R-Hel Vanes |
|
Fixed-Blade B-Heads |
4" R-Hel Vanes |
|
|